Recipe for success: Chef Jovani Manalo of 3Fils shares advice and a delicious snapper and za’atar recipe
DUBAI: Filipino chef Giovani Manalo’s culinary career began when he landed a job as a kitchen steward straight out of university. What changed his course was a call from a friend asking if he was interested in working overseas. He jumped at the chance and was in Dubai within a week.
“I’ve worked in Chinese, Korean and Italian restaurants, as well as Latin American and Mexican restaurants,” Manalo told Arab News. But it was his move to 3Fils at Dubai’s Jumeirah Fishing Harbour, five years into his Dubai adventure, that was most significant. “I was thrilled when I found my place at 3Fils,” he said.
The restaurant topped the 2022 World’s 50 Best MENA list, remaining in the top 10. It also won the Michelin Bib Gourmand this year.
Manalo said what he likes most about working there is the “contagious positive vibe” of the place.
What’s the biggest mistake you made when you were starting out?
I think everyone will tell you that they didn’t sharpen their knives enough at the beginning of their career.
What’s your best advice for amateur chefs?
Take your time. The more you rush things, the less likely you are to succeed. Cooking should be thought of as a form of therapy, something you can do to relax. Take a step back and enjoy the whole process.
Can you make any dish instantly delicious with just one ingredient?
All kinds of umami ingredients are combined without missing a single flavor.
When you eat out, do you ever find yourself criticizing the food?
Not really. I don’t think like that. Every time I go out to eat, I see it as an opportunity to rethink and understand the elements of the dish, to think of different ways to innovate it and try to get the most out of it.
When you eat out, what’s your favorite food?
It doesn’t matter what you eat or where you eat it, it’s who you eat it with that matters.
What are some common mistakes you see other restaurants making?
Your products are not priced correctly, which will cause you to lose potential customers.
When you have to cook something quickly at home, what do you make?
And a nice stir-fry of vegetables, which I use to teach my kids about the importance of vegetables in their diet.
What customer behavior annoys you the most?
When they run away without paying.
What is your favorite dish to make?
I love making ginatang pagi, a Filipino coconut and stingray curry dish that represents my roots and reminds me of family gatherings.
As a head chef, what kind of personality are you? Are you a strict person? Do you yell a lot? Or are you more laid back?
I consider myself calm, which is essential if you want to create a positive environment for your team. Yelling is no longer acceptable or practical. Especially in the kitchen, we need to come together as a team, so it’s essential that people understand their role and how they can excel.
Chef Giovani’s Sunatar Recipe
Chef Giovani’s Snatar. (Included)
Zaatar Spice Mix
Ingredients: 50g za’atar powder, 50g lemon salt, 7.5g salted kelp powder, 5g sumac powder
Instructions: Combine all ingredients in a dry bowl. Mix well. Transfer to an airtight container. Set aside.
Za’atar Dressing
Ingredients: 50g za’atar powder, 180g extra virgin olive oil, 120g rice vinaigrette, 10g Maldon salt, 100g lime juice, 7g sumac powder
Instructions: Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whisk until thoroughly combined (ensure the Maldon salt is dissolved). Transfer to a squeeze bottle. Set aside.
Pea sprout oil
Ingredients: 50g pea sprouts, 200g soybean oil
Instructions:
1. Boil the pea shoots for 30 seconds. Strain and immediately submerge in ice.
2. Squeeze the blanched pea shoots to drain the water.
3. Place pea sprouts in a blender, add soybean oil and blend for 2 minutes.
4. Strain (do not press) the mixture into a piping bag. Set aside.
The last dish
Ingredients: 50g peeled and sliced sea bream, a pinch of za’tar spice mix, 10g za’tar dressing, 2g pea shoot oil, 2 edible flowers, 3 pea shoots, tomato powder.
Instructions:
1. Place the snapper slices on a plate, spreading them out in a single layer.
2. Season with za’atar spice mix.
3. Finish by adding the za’atar dressing.
4. Add a little pea sprout oil.
5. Garnish with fresh pea shoots and edible flowers.
6. Sprinkle with tomato powder and it’s done.
7. Serve chilled.